Bangkok--16 Apr--KOBFAH PR Agency
THE HISTORY
- Originally created to protect officers from wind and rain, the Burberry trench coat has evolved over 100 years to become an icon, representing timeless British style and design innovation.Named after the trenches where military personnel were stationed, the coat has a rich and vivid history.
- The trench coat began as the Burberry Tielocken, patented by Thomas Burberry in 1912. The innovative design featured a belted closure without buttons and was made from gabardine, the patented fabric that accompanied explorers on the first expeditions to the poles.
- Over the years, the coat was developed to serve the needs of officers in the early 20th century. Lauded for its protective qualities, comfort and durability, the design grew in popularity and was worn by royalty, film stars and artists. Now the Burberry trench coat appears across the globe, from London to Paris, New York to Shanghai.
GABARDINE
- At the heart of the Burberry trench coat story is the tightly woven cloth that sets it apart from all others. Invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879, gabardine revolutionised rainwear.
- Before this innovation, fabrics were waxed or rubberised to repel water, making them heavy, stiff and uncomfortable to wear for long periods. Gabardine was made from yarn woven in a compact twill construction with over 100 interlaced threads per centimetre. The microscopic open spaces in the weave allowed ventilation, while the compact structure prevented rain from permeating the fabric. For extra protection, the cloth was then triple proofed, creating a lightweight, highly weatherproof and breathable garment.
- Woven at the Burberry mill in England, today gabardine is created using many of the traditional techniques that originally set it apart from other fabrics, alongside new, modern finishing processes that make it more water-repellent than ever before. From raw materials to finishing, every step in its production is carefully considered. The cotton is chosen for the fineness and length of its fibres, which give a clean surface texture and enhanced strength. This is then spun into yarn, which itself is super-strong and durable, created from two fine yarns twisted together in a process known as doubling. The colour of Burberry gabardine is strictly controlled and must be signed off by experts at the mill. After final approval, the fabric undergoes finishing and is checked twice more by eye to ensure the cloth is flawless.
THE DESIGN
- Developed for the military, each unmistakable detail of the Burberry trench coat was introduced to serve a purpose:
- Epaulettes: displayed the rank of officers, while the gun flap, buttoned at the chest, gave the area additional protection when in action.
- Storm shield: covering the upper back, was added to ensure that water ran cleanly off the coat and kept the wearer dry.
- Belt/D-rings: The coat was belted at the waist to add further protection from the elements, while metal D-rings were a place to attach military tools.
- Back: allowing ease of movement, the back pleat was constructed to expand when running or on horseback.
THE CRAFTSMANSHIP
- Burberry trench coats are made in Castleford, a town in the north of England, by expert workers who combine traditional techniques with modern technological developments. It takes approximately three weeks to make each coat. Over 100 highly skilled processes must be completed, each one to ensure the quality and unique appearance for which the Burberry trench coat is known.
- The collar: The most intricate of these is the stitching of the collar, which is unique to Burberry trench coats. It takes up to a year to learn to stitch the collar alone, using a method that is part of Burberry design heritage. The craftsman hand-places 11.5 tiny stitches per inch along the length of the collar to create a fluid curve, ensuring it sits perfectly on the neck.
- Details: Detail is key in the creation of the trench coat. The cuff straps and belt are constructed and stitched so that their edges are clean and flat, while the formation of the back pleat has not changed in 100 years, staying true to the design for horse riding.
- The lining: The attention of expert craftsmen is focused outside and within. Each coat is lined with the iconic Burberry check, a badge of origin since the 1920s, which is made up of a signature combination of camel, ivory, red and black. Each lining is carefully cut and placed to ensure the check design is symmetrical and unbroken, while the undercollar lining features a bias positioning, with the lines of the check meeting at exactly 45 degrees.
THE COLLECTION – AVAILABLE IN-STORE AND ON BURBERRY.COM
- The Burberry trench coat is presented in three colours taken from the Burberry Heritage Archive – honey, stone and black – and three fits.
Womenswear
- Sandringham slim fit offered in short, mid-length and long
- Kensington modern fit offered in short, mid-length and long
- Westminster classic fit offered in mid-length and long
Menswear
- Sandringham slim fit offered in short and long
- Kensington modern fit offered in short and mid-length
- Wiltshire modern fit with raglan sleeves offered in long
- Westminster classic fit offered in long
Childrenswear
- Sandringham for girls
- Sandringham for boys